Calvin and Leanne are a Canadian couple who have travelled extensively in their 1957 Greyhound bus. We didn’t have the pleasure of meeting Leanne as she was back in Canada, but Calvin greeted us like old friends. The place is called ‘Overland Oasis’, and it truly is. Calvin and Leanne have transformed their garden space into an area that can accommodate around five or so overland vehicles at a time, depending on the size of course. Over the years you can only imagine the types of vehicles that have passed through this place, and the stories that the occupants have to tell. Apart from a safe space, clean bathrooms and good wifi, Calvin provides a workshop and his skills to perform all sorts of modifications and mechanical fixes on all these vehicles. His portfolio is somewhat exceptional. It therefore goes without saying that Hayden did not need to worry about someone complaining about him doing work on the car – that’s exactly why most people come to Calvin and Leanne’s! Being low season the small space was not very full, in our two weeks there were a few people came and went, but there was one other couple who were there for our duration. Fred and Elisabeth are a Dutch couple who call New Zealand home, and home it should be after 30 or so years! Fred even had a kiwi twang to his accent every now and again. They have been on the road for just over a year in their beautifully maintained 1957 Mercedes. They tow a pop-up camper and are planning to take around seven years to drive the globe. If anyone thought we were mad driving in a small Land Rover, then these two are bonkers! But they are doing it and it’s safe to say that Fred and Hayden bonded over the ongoing maintenance of old cars. Like Hayden, Fred does all the work and upkeep, but gets a little more help from Elisabeth than Hayden does from me.
The Overland Oasis is a few miles out of Oaxaca City, in the little town of Santa Maria del Tule, home to the ‘famous’ big tree. Whilst the title of ‘World’s Largest Tree’ can be debated I guess it depends on what factor of the tree is being measured. It certainly isn’t the tallest, and from a distance it looks relatively average. However, upon closer inspection it is phenomenally chunky! It’s a damn shame there is a big fence and signs to warn you against climbing the tree as it looks like a fantastic climbing tree, but never mind there is plenty to see in this pretty town. Oaxaca itself was a little different than normal. Currently the main square is full of tents and tarps, and is inhabited by teachers who are currently striking. The strikes have been going on for weeks and tensions are rising – this was very noticeable in the scores of riot police who also lined the streets. The teachers have been striking on and off for some years, and in 2006 there were horrific riots resulting in many deaths. Despite this, we felt safe and explored the markets with Fred and Elisabeth, ate delicious street food, visited the ruins of Monte Alban and the frozen waterfalls, and did many obligatory trips to Walmart and Autozone. Back at Overland Oasis we all ate together, got plenty of car work done and visited the local markets. As the days went by the teacher strikes got worse. They began blocking the road between Mexico City and Oaxaca City, and some lives were lost in a clash between teachers and police just on the other side of Oaxaca. With their Union leaders arrested and imprisoned under mysterious circumstances and the Education Secretary threatening to fire 3,000 teachers for missing three days of school, it’s easy to see why tensions are high. But they are also revolting against an educational reform, one which will require teachers to take a test to evaluate their capabilities, and could result in loss of jobs should the results not be adequate. Here’s the thing, you do not need a qualification to teach in Mexico. You just need to know people, and unfortunately the country’s corrupt reputation has extended to its schools. Of course if you are a teacher that is able to pass the test, this would be of no concern, it would even help job security and of course the education of the future leaders of Mexico. Oaxaca has become the hot bed for such protests as it is not only home to the Union office, but also due to the fact that it has proposed its own education reform, one which focused on respecting indigenous culture and forming positive relationships between teachers, students, parents and the wider community. In 2012 this idea was overthrown in place of the federal proposal and protests began immediately, escalating in effect ever since. Students in the states of Oaxaca, Guerrero, Chiappas and Michoacan have hardly had any regular schooling as there are no teachers left to teach them. It’s basically a huge mess. Anyway, with roads blocked, supplies in stores dwindling, we loaded up and bunkered down. As it turns out, the number of road blocks dwindled relatively quickly and our self imposed lock down was broken.
It was during our stay at Overland Oasis that our travel plans were thrown into disarray. Fred and Elisabeth kindly (although we were temporarily very annoyed) informed us that Costa Rica have changed their laws. Right hand drive vehicles have long been a touchy subject in Costa Rica, but they have never fully adhered to their laws. Until now. Fred had done a ton of research and to almost quote him ‘there is no way, no chance whatsoever that they will allow a right hand drive vehicle’. Hmmmm. And if you have ever looked at a map you will know that the only way around Costa Rica is via water, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang style.
In light of this news, we decided that we will turn back north. Back to America, maybe make Maggie left hand drive, maybe not. Either way, it will give more exploring time and more time to formulate a plan.
Thanks Overland Oasis, and thanks Fred and Elisabeth for not allowing us to get all the way to the border of Costa Rica only to be faced with inevitably turning around. Onwards and upwards we go, or to be more accurate, head north!
